Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Nectaroma (1960)

Nectaroma by Tuvache, launched in 1960, bears a name that feels deliberately poetic and sensuous, perfectly aligned with the era’s love of abundance and cultivated femininity. The word “Nectaroma” appears to be a coined term, blending nectar—from the Greek nektar, the mythical drink of the gods—with aroma, a word rooted in classical Latin and Greek meaning fragrance or spice. Pronounced simply as “NECK-tar-OH-ma,” it suggests sweetness, richness, and a natural luxuriance that borders on the divine. The name evokes images of sunlit gardens heavy with bloom, golden afternoons, and a woman surrounded by beauty—fresh flowers in every room, warm skin, and a life lived with ease and discernment. Emotionally, “Nectaroma” promises generosity and sensual pleasure rather than restraint: it is lush, confident, and unapologetically feminine.

Introduced at the dawn of the 1960s—a period often referred to as the postwar elegance or early Space Age era—Nectaroma emerged at a moment of optimism, prosperity, and renewed interest in personal luxury. Fashion was moving toward refined silhouettes, immaculate grooming, and an ideal of womanhood that balanced domestic sophistication with quiet glamour. In perfumery, this translated into complex, polished compositions that felt rich yet controlled, often blending classical structures with modern technical finesse. Women of the time would have related deeply to a perfume called Nectaroma: it spoke to abundance and sensuality, to a cultivated love of flowers, comfort, and beauty, while still feeling tasteful and grown-up. It was not a fleeting novelty, but a fragrance meant to become part of a woman’s daily ritual and identity.



Classified as a floral chypre with aromatic–aldehydic and soft oriental facets, Nectaroma interprets its name directly through scent. It unfolds as a symphony of flowers warmed by sunlight, yet cooled by green, herbal nuances and gently polished by aldehydes that lend lift and diffusion. Notes suggestive of eglantine, lavender, and heather bring a pastoral freshness, while impressions of new-mown hay evoke warmth, skin, and late summer fields. Verbena, reseda, chrysanthemum, and pelargonium add crisp, slightly spicy and green-floral accents, creating contrast and structure within the floral richness. The result is a fragrance that feels both natural and composed—warm and generous, yet never heavy.

As a bath perfume, Nectaroma extended this sensual experience beyond the skin, transforming water into a perfumed veil that softened the body and lingered for hours. This ritualistic aspect—using the fragrance to anoint the skin or perfume the bath—reinforced the idea of scent as an intimate luxury, an extension of self rather than a mere accessory. In the context of its time, Nectaroma did not radically break with prevailing trends; rather, it exemplified them at their most refined. Its complexity, naturalistic floral abundance, and chypre backbone placed it firmly within the sophisticated mainstream of mid-century perfumery. Yet its emphasis on warmth, nature, and tactile pleasure gave it a distinctive, emotionally resonant character—one that justified its slogan: “NECTAROMA goes with a woman—the perfume most like a woman… the perfume most women like.”



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women with aromatic–aldehydic and soft oriental facets. 
  • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, neroli, citron, mandarin orange, neroli, heather, cassie, verbena, basil leaf, cardamom, wallflower, anise, caraway, linalool  
  • Middle notes: pelargonium, hawthorn, reseda, lilac, lavender, chrysanthemum, hydroxycitronellal, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, rose, geranium, ylang ylang, French orange blossom, violet, orris
  • Base notes: heliotrope, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, eugenol,  civet, ambergris, musk, musk ketone, musk xylene, cedar, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, tolu balsam, styrax, storax, tonka bean, coumarin, vanilla, vanillin

Scent Profile:


Nectaroma opens with a radiant, almost effervescent lift, the kind of brightness that seems to shimmer on the skin before it fully settles. The aldehydes sparkle first—those abstract, silvery molecules that smell clean, airy, and faintly waxy, like starched linen warmed by sunlight. They magnify everything that follows, giving the citrus notes both reach and elegance. Lemon and citron arrive crisp and mouthwatering, their zest sharply aromatic rather than sugary, while bergamot—traditionally prized from Calabria for its refined balance of bitterness and floral sweetness—adds a softly green, Earl Grey–like nuance. Mandarin orange contributes a rounder, juicier sweetness, less sharp than the lemon, lending a gentle warmth to the opening. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree and historically associated with Mediterranean luxury, floats above the citrus with a honeyed, slightly metallic floral glow that bridges brightness and bloom.

As the top continues to unfurl, aromatic and green facets emerge, grounding the sparkle in nature. Verbena smells lemony yet herbal, brisk and cooling, while basil leaf adds a savory, sun-warmed greenness that feels almost tactile. Cardamom brings a soft, aromatic spice—cool, faintly camphoraceous, and elegant—while anise and caraway introduce a licorice-like sweetness, gently bitter and intriguing rather than edible. Heather lends a dry, airy floral-herbal tone, evocative of open landscapes, while cassie (a richer, more leathery cousin of mimosa, often associated with French perfumery) adds a powdery, honeyed warmth with subtle animalic undertones. Wallflower contributes a clove-tinged floral spice, quietly foreshadowing the deeper notes to come. Linalool, a naturally occurring aroma molecule found in lavender and many flowers, smooths the entire opening—its soft, floral-woody scent acting like a silk lining that harmonizes citrus, herbs, and aldehydes into a seamless whole.

The heart of Nectaroma blossoms into a densely woven floral tapestry, classical and unmistakably mid-century in character. Lily-of-the-valley appears in its idealized form through hydroxycitronellal, a key aroma chemical prized for its dewy, green-floral freshness; it smells like crushed stems and cool petals, lending luminosity and structure. This freshness supports lilac and hawthorn, which together suggest spring air—soft, slightly almondy, and tender. Lavender, likely of French origin, brings aromatic clarity and calm, its herbal sweetness refined rather than medicinal. Chrysanthemum adds a faintly bitter, green-floral edge, keeping the bouquet from becoming overly sweet. Jasmine and rose form the emotional core: jasmine, rich and indolic, suggests warm skin and dusk-blooming flowers, while rose—whether imagined as a lush Bulgarian-style oil or a softer French rose impression—adds velvety depth and quiet romance.

Pelargonium and geranium reinforce the rosy heart with a green, slightly minty lift, while ylang ylang—often sourced from Madagascar or the Comoros—adds creamy, banana-like floral warmth, its tropical richness tempered here by the chypre structure. French orange blossom contributes a luminous, white-floral sweetness, more refined and less heady than neroli, while violet introduces a cool, powdery softness reminiscent of cosmetics and suede gloves. Orris, derived from aged iris rhizomes traditionally sourced from Florence, brings a noble, earthy-powdery quality—cool, rooty, and faintly buttery—that binds the florals together and prepares the transition to the base.

The base of Nectaroma is where its floral chypre identity fully reveals itself, deep, resonant, and gently animalic. Heliotrope lends a soft almond-vanilla powderiness, comforting and skin-like, while spices—cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove—add warmth and quiet sensuality. Eugenol, the primary aromatic component of clove, amplifies this spiced warmth, lending a faintly medicinal, carnation-like richness that ties back to the floral heart. Civet and ambergris, used in trace amounts, provide depth and diffusion rather than overt animality: civet adds a warm, musky sensuality, while ambergris contributes a saline, slightly sweet glow that makes the entire composition feel alive and breathing. Natural musk impressions are reinforced by musk ketone and musk xylene—classic synthetic musks of the era—clean yet persistent, enhancing longevity and creating a soft, enveloping aura that feels intimate rather than loud.

Woody and resinous notes anchor the fragrance firmly to the earth. Cedar brings dryness and structure, patchouli adds a dark, slightly camphoraceous richness, and oakmoss—central to the chypre tradition—contributes its unmistakable damp, forest-floor aroma, bitter, green, and profoundly elegant. Vetiver, likely imagined in its Bourbon style, adds a smoky, grassy dryness, while sandalwood introduces creamy, lactonic warmth. Tolu balsam, styrax, and storax lend balsamic sweetness and a faintly leathery, incense-like depth, reinforcing the soft oriental facet of the perfume. Tonka bean and coumarin provide a hay-like sweetness—warm, slightly bitter, and nostalgic—while vanilla and vanillin soften the base with a gentle, familiar sweetness that never overwhelms the chypre structure.

Together, these elements create a fragrance that feels abundant yet composed, a true floral chypre where aldehydic sparkle, botanical realism, and sensual depth coexist in harmony. The natural materials provide texture and emotional richness, while the synthetic aroma chemicals refine, amplify, and stabilize the composition, allowing Nectaroma to bloom fully on the skin and linger with a quiet, confident elegance.


Harper's Bazaar - Volume 94, 1961:
"NECTAROMA. BATH FRAGRANCE AND BODY JOY Just airborne—a great new fragrance fashion, rich and rare—warm—flashingly brilliant. A few drops in your bath or on your skin surround you with loveliness to herald your approach."


The New Yorker, 1962:
"Tuvaché some time ago brought out a bath perfume, called Nectaroma, that is all outdoors—sunny, grassy, and flowery. Now they've gone and made a perfume of it, to say nothing of all manner of powders and other condiments for the bathtub. They're to be found most everywhere."

Playbill, 1962:
"GOES WITH A WOMAN A fragrance born in the sun, born anew on a woman who loves masses of flowers in every room, the best of everything in life . . . Nectaroma — today's fashion fragrance. Like love, it's indispensable!"



Fate of the Fragrance:



Nectaroma was introduced in 1960, arriving at a moment when perfumery favored generous, complex compositions that balanced natural richness with modern refinement. Though its exact discontinuation date remains undocumented, the fragrance clearly enjoyed a sustained presence on the market; it was still being offered for sale as late as 1972, suggesting enduring popularity well beyond its debut. This longevity reflects Nectaroma’s ability to resonate with women across a changing decade, maintaining relevance as tastes shifted while preserving the opulent, carefully structured character that defined its original release.


2013 Irma Shorell Version:


In 2013, Irma Shorell introduced its own interpretation of the fragrance, presenting it as a modernized “version” rather than a faithful reconstruction. This reworking was orchestrated with contemporary materials and accords designed to suit modern tastes and regulatory standards, resulting in a cleaner, more streamlined character than the original. While the name and spirit nod to the historic perfume, the actual formula differs significantly, prioritizing accessibility and wearability for a new audience over the dense natural richness and complexity that defined the earlier composition.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: cassis, basil leaves, cardamom, bergamot and mandarin
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, neroli and orange blossom
  • Base notes: musk, violet, cedarwood, moss and vetiver

Scent Profile:


The 2013 interpretation by Irma Shorell opens with a bright, modern freshness that immediately signals its contemporary hand. Cassis bursts first—cool, inky, and green-purple, with that unmistakable blackcurrant bud sharpness that feels both juicy and slightly catty, a note prized in modern perfumery for its ability to suggest fruit, leaf, and light all at once. Basil leaves follow, aromatic and green, their crushed, almost peppery herbal snap lending lift and clarity. Cardamom adds a gentle, silvery spice—less fiery than clove or cinnamon, more airy and lemony—while bergamot and mandarin soften the opening with a clean citrus glow. The bergamot contributes its elegant bitterness, likely inspired by Calabrian oils long favored for their balance of freshness and refinement, while mandarin adds a sweeter, sunlit roundness. Together, these top notes feel transparent and breezy, designed to sparkle rather than linger.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a pared-down floral trio that feels deliberately understated. Lily of the valley—rendered almost entirely through aroma chemicals such as hydroxycitronellal and related muguet molecules—smells cool, watery, and green, evoking spring air rather than an actual flower tincture. Neroli and orange blossom bring soft white petals and a faint honeyed citrus nuance; neroli’s distilled freshness contrasts with the warmer, more sensual orange blossom absolute effect. These notes echo the floral core of the original Nectaroma, but here they are simplified and smoothed, offering a clean, luminous bouquet rather than a dense floral symphony. The effect is graceful and easy to wear, with no sharp edges and no overt animalic depth.

The base of the 2013 version is gentle and modern, anchored in clean musks and dry woods. The musk is soft and cottony rather than animalic, likely built from contemporary white musks that suggest skin warmth without overt sensuality. Violet adds a faint powdery sweetness, recalling makeup and petals rather than earth, while cedarwood contributes a dry, pencil-shaving woodiness that keeps the composition upright and airy. Moss and vetiver provide a whisper of green earth beneath—vetiver’s rooty, slightly smoky dryness and moss’s cool forest floor nuance hint at a chypre ancestry without fully embracing it. Compared to historic oakmoss or dense resins, these notes feel restrained, offering structure rather than drama.

When set beside the original Nectaroma by Tuvache, the contrast is striking. The original was a lush, complex floral chypre, overflowing with aldehydes, herbs, grasses, spices, and a lavish floral heart supported by animalic materials like civet and ambergris. Its opening would have shimmered with aldehydes—soapy, waxy, champagne-like molecules that amplified the citrus and florals—while layers of lavender, heather, reseda, hay-like nuances, and rich spices unfolded slowly. The base was deep, warm, and sensual, with oakmoss, patchouli, balsams, musks, and vanilla creating a lingering, enveloping trail. It smelled sun-warmed, opulent, and undeniably mid-century, with a tactile richness that filled a room.

Side by side, the 2013 version feels like a watercolor sketch next to an oil painting. Both share a floral freshness and a nod to green notes, but where the original Nectaroma was dense, animalic, and intricately layered, the Irma Shorell version is clean, linear, and transparent. The modern fragrance prioritizes freshness, clarity, and approachability, while the original celebrated abundance, texture, and sensual depth. One whispers softly on the skin; the other spoke in full, resonant tones—two interpretations of the same name, separated by decades of changing taste, materials, and expectations.