The name Moroccan Rose evokes images of sunlit rose fields at the edge of the Atlas Mountains, baskets overflowing with crimson petals, spice-laden air drifting from nearby souks, and a sense of exotic luxury grounded in ancient tradition. Created by Bernadine de Tuvaché, the fragrance is classified as a spicy floral woody (floral oriental) composition, with a strong rose soliflore tendency. Here, the rose is not fragile or dewy, but full-bodied and commanding—its natural Moroccan rose otto glowing with warmth, touched by spice and anchored by woods. The rose unfolds with a velvety richness, its honeyed facets deepened by subtle animalic undertones and its floral sweetness tempered by dryness and spice, creating a perfume that feels both opulent and composed.
The year 1940 marked a dramatic and uncertain moment in history, at the outset of the Second World War. Fashion and perfumery of the late 1930s and early 1940s leaned toward classic elegance, escapism, and emotional reassurance. Structured tailoring, strong silhouettes, and refined femininity dominated women’s style, while perfumes often emphasized florals enriched with spice and woods—scents that conveyed dignity, sensuality, and resilience. For women of the time, a perfume called Moroccan Rose would have suggested timeless beauty and distant warmth, an olfactory escape to lands untouched by war. It offered continuity with pre-war luxury while reaffirming femininity and poise during a period of upheaval.
In the context of the market, Moroccan Rose aligned with prevailing trends toward rich floral orientals and rose-forward compositions, yet distinguished itself through its emphatic use of genuine Moroccan rose otto, lending authenticity and depth. However, the availability of such materials in 1940 would have been increasingly challenging. While Morocco, as a French protectorate at the time, remained more accessible than some regions, wartime disruptions made the procurement of natural essences costly and uncertain. The inclusion of true Moroccan rose therefore underscores both the ambition of the fragrance and its positioning as a luxury object—one that celebrated heritage, craftsmanship, and the enduring allure of rose at a moment when such beauty felt especially precious.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Moroccan Rose is classified as a spicy floral woody (floral oriental) fragrance for women, with a strong rose soliflore tendency. sweet as honey yet dry and a bit spicy.
- Top notes: citronellol, rose geranium, geraniol, phenylacetaldehyde, narcissus absolute, cassie, pink pepper, clove bud
- Middle notes: beeswax absolute, phenylacetic acid, immortelle, orange blossom absolute, damascena rose otto, phenylethyl alcohol, ylang ylang oil, orris butter
- Base notes: cinnamon leaf, coriander seed, cardamom, nutmeg, rhodinol, rosewood, Mysore sandalwood, vanilla, ambergris, vetiver, coumarin, hay absolute, ambrette seed
Scent Profile:
Moroccan Rose by Tuvaché is a masterful orchestration of floral, spicy, and woody notes, evoking the exotic elegance of Morocco while remaining grounded in classic Oriental sensibilities. Classified as a spicy floral woody (floral oriental) fragrance with a strong rose soliflore tendency, it exudes a richness that is at once sweet as honey yet dry and a little spicy, revealing layers of complexity as it unfolds on the skin.
The top notes immediately open with a bright, radiant floral-green bouquet. Citronellol, a naturally occurring alcohol found in rose and geranium oils, gives a green-rosy shimmer that sparkles with freshness. Rose geranium and geraniol enhance the floral complexity, providing a slightly green, dewy rose-like aroma that deepens the soliflore character. Phenylacetaldehyde contributes a soft honeyed facet, sweet yet powdery, lifting the bouquet with warmth. The inclusion of narcissus absolute and cassie adds an intoxicating, slightly animalic sweetness, while pink pepper and clove bud introduce a subtle, lively spiciness, giving the opening an energetic yet elegant edge. Together, these notes create an initial impression that is both opulent and sophisticated, hinting at the warm, spicy floral heart to come.
The heart of the fragrance is a luxurious floral tapestry. Beeswax absolute provides a soft, honeyed warmth, almost tactile in its texture, balancing the heady orange blossom absolute and damascena rose otto—the latter the star of the composition, sourced from Morocco for its deep, spicy, slightly resinous floral richness that distinguishes it from Bulgarian or Turkish rose. Phenylethyl alcohol amplifies the rose, enhancing its natural sweetness and velvety character, while ylang-ylang oil imparts a creamy, exotic, slightly fruity richness that harmonizes beautifully with orris butter, adding powdery elegance and a subtle earthy nuance. Immortelle, with its warm, hay-like, slightly bitter honeyed scent, deepens the oriental character, bridging the floral heart to the warm, spicy base. This heart is both aromatic and honeyed, offering a bouquet that feels alive yet sophisticated, floral yet grounded.
The base notes provide a long-lasting, warm, and subtly spicy foundation. Cinnamon leaf, coriander seed, cardamom, and nutmeg create a gentle oriental spiciness that is nuanced rather than overwhelming. Rhodinol, a rose-like aroma chemical, reinforces the floral character in a soft, radiant way. Rich woods—rosewood and Mysore sandalwood—add depth and a creamy, almost balsamic warmth. Sweet vanilla and coumarin enhance the honeyed facets, while ambergris, vetiver, and hay absolute lend complexity and longevity, balancing the sweetness with earthy, animalic, and slightly smoky undertones. Ambrette seed, with its musky, slightly fruity aroma, harmonizes the base with a natural warmth that rounds out the fragrance beautifully.
Overall, Moroccan Rose is an elegant interplay of honeyed floral warmth, exotic spices, and creamy woods, with the Moroccan rose otto anchoring it as a luminous, soliflore-inspired centerpiece. The honeyed facets of phenylacetaldehyde, beeswax absolute, and coumarin contrast with the dry spiciness of clove, pink pepper, and oriental spices, creating a fragrance that feels both vibrant and grounded, sensual yet refined. The careful layering of natural essences and select aroma chemicals ensures a perfume that is complex, long-lasting, and unmistakably luxurious, evoking sun-drenched rose fields, exotic markets, and the timeless allure of Morocco.
Esquire, 1944:
"And African perfume in utterly different, never- to-be - forgotten odors such as "Algiers", "Moroccan Rose", heavily and sweetly scented; "Arabia", exotic and spicy. Bottles have labels of colored suede and are boxed in grass tied with raffia."
Glass Packer, 1949:
"Tuvaché's "prize package" has four one-ounce bottles of four different cologne fragrances and a half-dram sample of Moroccan Rose perfume. The bottles are supplied by Carr- Lowrey Glass Company, gold-color metal caps by Richford."
Harper's Bazaar, 1957:
"An exotic perfume — Tuvaché's "Moroccan Rose." sweet, lightly dry and perfect for holiday romanticism. 2 1/2 ounces, $55."
The New Yorker, 1958:
"Tuvaché is noted for single-flower scents that are as up-to-date as tomorrow's newspaper. Now four Tuvaché favorites are in cologne form in spray bottles —Moroccan Rose, Lily of the Valley, Lilac, and Violet; $5.50 at Saks."
Tucson Daily Citizen, 1958:
"One day we will have the Queen of Flowers..the Moroccan Rose..in full bloom for your nostrils to enjoy. There are hundreds of varieties, but Tuvache has chosen a species that grows only in Morocco, for its superb scent...sweet as honey yet dry and a bit spicy."
Vogue, 1963:
"For roses caught at the peak of their fragrance, roses raised for scent alone, there are these perfumes to think about: Joy by Patou, La Rose by Marcel Rochas, Moroccan Rose by Tuvache."
Albuquerque Journal, 1965:
"Moroccan Rose, one might say, is the most serenely confident of all the flowers. More, Moroccan Rose is seductive - and one of the most perfect rose perfumes in the world - it smells like a rose. People honestly look around for the roses when you wear it. Tuvache uses, we are told, only roses from Morocco because they are sweetest and deepest in fragrance."
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Moroccan Rose by Tuvaché is a perfume steeped in history, launched in 1940 during the early years of World War II—a time when luxury goods, particularly exotic ingredients, were difficult to obtain. Despite wartime restrictions, Bernadine de Tuvaché managed to craft this exquisite fragrance for discerning women in America, demonstrating her skill in balancing scarcity with artistry. As noted in Esquire in 1944, Moroccan Rose was part of an “African perfume” collection alongside other exotic scents like Algiers and Arabia, each heavily and memorably scented. Its presentation—bottles with colored genuine suede labels and grass-boxed raffia—evoked a sense of faraway luxury, immediately transporting the wearer to sun-drenched Moroccan rose gardens and exotic lands.
By the late 1940s, Moroccan Rose had become a symbol of refined indulgence and elegance. Glass Packer in 1949 highlighted the perfume in a “prize package” that included four one-ounce bottles of Tuvaché colognes along with a half-dram of Moroccan Rose, the flacons supplied by Carr-Lowrey Glass Company and topped with gold-colored metal caps. These details emphasized not only the quality of the fragrance itself but also the sophistication and care with which it was presented, reflecting the couture-like attention to luxury packaging that Tuvaché was known for.
Through the 1950s and 1960s, Moroccan Rose maintained its reputation as a rose soliflore of extraordinary character. Harper’s Bazaar in 1957 described it as “sweet, lightly dry and perfect for holiday romanticism,” while The New Yorker in 1958 noted that it was part of Tuvaché’s line of single-flower scents, highlighting its up-to-date, modern sensibility. The Tucson Daily Citizen praised its authenticity, noting that the perfume captured a species of rose that grows only in Morocco, “sweet as honey yet dry and a bit spicy.” This specificity in sourcing gave the perfume a unique depth and warmth that distinguished it from the Bulgarian or Turkish roses common in perfumery, lending Moroccan Rose its signature honeyed, slightly dry, and subtly spiced facets.
By the 1960s, Moroccan Rose had joined the ranks of the most celebrated rose perfumes in the world. Vogue in 1963 compared it alongside Joy by Patou and La Rose by Marcel Rochas, noting its focus on roses “raised for scent alone,” caught at the peak of their fragrance. The Albuquerque Journal in 1965 praised its serene confidence and seductive quality, remarking that people would search for the rose itself when the perfume was worn—a testament to the naturalistic authenticity of its scent. Tuvaché’s exclusive use of Moroccan rose otto, the richest and sweetest rose essence, ensured that Moroccan Rose exuded a true soliflore character, with its honeyed top notes, deep floral heart, and warm, subtly spicy base.
Though the exact date of discontinuation is unknown, Moroccan Rose continued to be available at least through 1970, maintaining its allure as a symbol of elegance, luxury, and the timeless beauty of a perfectly captured rose. It remains a remarkable example of Tuvaché’s artistry, balancing the richness of natural Moroccan rose with complementary spices, woods, and musks to create a fragrance that is at once sophisticated, exotic, and distinctly feminine.
