Violet (1939)

Violet by Tuvaché, launched in 1939, is a captivating floral oriental (floriental) fragrance for women, a testament to Bernadine de Tuvaché’s ability to capture the delicate charm of nature in scent. The name “Violet” comes from the Latin viola, referring to the tiny, heart-shaped flowers that have long symbolized modesty, devotion, and grace. In perfumery, violet is highly prized for its soft, powdery, green-floral aroma, evoking a walk through a dewy woodland carpeted with blossoms. While natural violet leaf and flower absolutes were historically used, by the late 1930s much of violet essence in perfumery relied on synthetic aromachemicals—such as ionones and methyl ionone—because true violet flower extraction is extremely labor-intensive and yields very little absolute. These synthetics not only mimic the velvety sweetness of the violet flower but also provide stability and consistency in composition.

The fragrance opens as a true woodland violet soliflore, immediately presenting a bouquet of violets at the peak of their freshness. Imagine walking through a shaded forest glade in early spring, each violet petal exhaling its gentle, powdery perfume. The heart is soft, rounded, and subtly creamy, enhanced by oriental facets that lend a whisper of warmth and complexity, making the scent rich yet ethereal. Women of 1939, at the brink of the Second World War, would have experienced Violet as both comforting and luxurious—a delicate indulgence in an uncertain era. It spoke to elegance, femininity, and refinement, resonating with the fashions of the time, which favored soft, ladylike silhouettes, floral motifs, and understated sophistication.

Despite wartime limitations, Tuvaché was able to procure essential oils, absolutes, and synthetic molecules sufficient to craft this fragrance, though some natural ingredients would have been scarce. Violet had been a perennial favorite since the 19th century, with nearly every perfumery offering its own version. What set Tuvaché’s Violet apart was its faithful woodland soliflore quality, a precise evocation of freshly gathered violets rather than a generalized floral blend. The fragrance embodies sweetness tempered by subtle green and powdery undertones, balanced with warm oriental base notes, making it at once classic and unique among contemporaneous perfumes. To the wearer, “Violet” would conjure images of quiet springtime gardens, shaded walks, and a refined, understated elegance that aligned perfectly with the aspirations of women of the late 1930s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Violet is classified as a floral oriental (floriental) fragrance for women.. It was said to be a true woodland violet soliflore. Like a nosegay of fragrant violets at the peak of freshness.

• Top notes: petitgrain, bergamot, orange, cassie, linalyl acetate, amyl laurinate
• Middle notes: ionone, methyl heptine carbonate, ylang ylang oil, orris butter, clove, iso eugenol, violet leaves absolute, heliotropin, jasmine, rose, ethyl myristate 
• Base notes: cedar, sandalwood, isosafrole, musk, vanillin, ambergris, benzoin, benzyl ether

Scent Profile:

Violet by Tuvaché is a lush, floral oriental—or floriental—fragrance that immediately immerses you in the delicate elegance of a woodland violet soliflore. At first breath, the top notes sparkle with brightness and vitality: the green freshness of petitgrain, derived from the leaves and twigs of bitter orange trees, gives a crisp, slightly bitter lift; bergamot, with its sparkling, sweet citrus from southern Italy, adds an airy Mediterranean brightness; and orange juice nuances enhance this citrusy clarity with a sunny, luminous sweetness. The cassie, reminiscent of mimosa, introduces a soft, powdery floral nuance that feels warm and inviting, while linalyl acetate and amyl laurinate, classic aroma chemicals, contribute a subtle fruity-floral effervescence, adding depth and ethereal lift that heightens the initial green-floral impression.

As the fragrance settles, the heart unfolds into an opulent, verdant bouquet. Ionone and methyl ionone—synthetic molecules prized for their violet-like aroma—evoke the creamy, slightly woody facets of the violet, while methyl heptine carbonate imparts a fresh, airy, slightly metallic lift that keeps the floral accord sparkling and modern. Ylang-ylang oil, sourced traditionally from the islands of the Comoros or Madagascar, brings a heady, exotic, almost tropical creaminess that contrasts beautifully with the crisp violet notes. 

Orris butter, with its buttery, powdery iris nuance, enriches the midphase with soft, luxurious depth. A touch of clove and iso eugenol lends a warm, spicy undercurrent that grounds the floral opulence without overwhelming it. The green, slightly aromatic character of violet leaves absolute reinforces the woodland essence, while heliotropin adds a sweet, almond-like lift reminiscent of cherry blossom tones. Finally, jasmine, rose, and ethyl myristate create a lush, silky floral heart—jasmine from Grasse adds a creamy and intoxicating sweetness, rose lends classic elegance and depth, and ethyl myristate smooths the texture, giving the florals a soft, radiant veil.

The base notes of Violet anchor the fragrance in a warm, slightly powdery, and subtly animalic realm. Cedar and sandalwood provide gentle, creamy woodiness; isosafrole, a rare aromatic, adds a faint, greenish-spicy nuance; and the musk trio—musk, ambergris, and benzyl ether—introduces sensual, skin-like warmth. Sweet facets emerge from vanillin and benzoin, evoking a soft, gourmand creaminess, while ambergris contributes a rich, marine-toned sensuality. Vetiver and patchouli add earthy, grounding qualities, and the whole base is subtly sweetened and textured by tonka bean-like coumarin notes. Together, these ingredients create a warm, lingering sillage that balances the airy, violet-laden florals of the top and middle notes.

Violet is a perfume that feels both ethereal and grounded: the crisp citrus and green notes lift you, the floral heart envelops you in opulent violet-centered elegance, and the oriental-woody base leaves a lingering, intoxicating warmth. It is simultaneously fresh, powdery, and sensual, perfectly capturing the magic of violet at its most radiant, framed in a timeless, luxurious composition that evokes the elegance of a bygone era.

Modern Packaging, 1944:

"A violet -colored, gold-stamped, sueded label and a chunky square ceramic cap add distinction to Tuvache's newest product — Violet ... Since raffia is used throughout the Tuvache line, the label for the skin perfume carries the same theme."

Cue, 1945:

"Tuvache's Violet isn't a perfume to throw around carelessly use a dash of it here and there on your skin, on your handkerchief and on your furs , to cast an aura of scent around you. It's a subtle aroma that will make you feel young."

The Diplomat, 1957:

"Violet Tuvache: Violet with sheer delight, you'll wear this spring fragrance which invokes and symbolizes all the joys of spring. What is it? Just a high-concentrate of the dew-fresh violets."

The New Yorker, 1959:

"Tuvache is noted for single-flower scents that are as up-to-date as tomorrow's newspaper. Now four Tuvache favorites are in cologne form in spray bottles — Moroccan Rose, Lily of the Valley, Lilac, and Violet; $5.50 at Saks."

Bottles:

Violet perfume, c1950s, photo by ebay selle asense4scents

Fate of the Fragrance:

Tuvaché’s Violet was launched in 1939, amid the early years of World War II, a period when luxury goods, particularly imported perfumery ingredients, were increasingly difficult to obtain. Despite wartime constraints, Bernadine de Tuvaché continued to craft her signature perfumes for American women, demonstrating both dedication and ingenuity in sourcing the finest natural and synthetic essences. Violet quickly became celebrated for its delicate, woodland-inspired character, capturing the essence of fresh, dew-laden blooms in an elegant, wearable composition.

By 1944, the fragrance was presented in modern packaging, featuring a violet-colored, gold-stamped sueded label and a distinctive chunky square ceramic cap, reflecting Tuvaché’s commitment to both artistry and elegance. Raffia, a signature element throughout the Tuvaché line, adorned the skin perfume label, reinforcing a sense of natural luxury and continuity across the brand. Publications like Cue in 1945 emphasized the perfume’s subtle, refined aura, advising women to “use a dash here and there on your skin, on your handkerchief, and on your furs,” highlighting how Violet was intended to envelop the wearer in a gentle, yet memorable scent that exuded youth and sophistication.

By the late 1950s, Violet had become synonymous with the joys of springtime. The Diplomat in 1957 described it as “violet with sheer delight,” a fragrance that distilled the freshness and purity of newly opened blooms. Similarly, The New Yorker in 1959 noted Tuvaché’s reputation for single-flower fragrances, praising Violet as part of a collection that included Moroccan Rose, Lily of the Valley, and Lilac, all designed to capture the essence of individual blooms at peak fragrance. Though the precise date of discontinuation is unknown, Violet continued to be available at least into 1975, testament to its enduring appeal. Tuvaché’s Violet represents a harmonious marriage of delicate florals and refined craftsmanship, a perfume that evokes both the gentle freshness of spring and the sophisticated elegance of mid-century American women.